Specs

Crossed Coil Wires

Tank Sticker Removal

Engine Clean-up

3-Part Install - Cobra Swept, Fi2000R, K&N

Stage 1 Rear Fender Clean-up

Performance Edge Tail Light and Side Mount License Plate

Blacked-Out Belt Guard

Exhaust Installation

Hints

Kent's Raider Mods

 

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 Maintenance and Modification How-To's

On this page we'll continually gather as much information as possible regarding maintenance (mechanical and appearance, routine and otherwise) of our specific bike - specifications, part numbers, articles, suggestions, etc..., as well as parts installation, and other custom modifications that Raider Owners have submitted.

If you have any experience with a particular maintenance or modification issue, please let us know about it - post it in the forum or send us an email.  Manuals can only tell us so much, there's no substitute for experience in the field.

Important Part Numbers and Other Specs

Oil Filter

bulletYamaha - P/N FV-13440-10.
bulletK&N  - P/N 401483
bulletK&N Chrome - P/N 401487

Spark Plugs

bulletNGK DPR8EA-9
bulletNGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9

Air Filter

bulletYamaha - P/N 1D7-14461
bulletK&N - P/N YA-1906

Tires

bulletFront - Metzeler ME880 XL - 120/70-21
bulletRear - Metzeler ME880 XL - 210/40-18

Exhaust Crush Gaskets (2) - Vital when installing new pipes

bulletYamaha - P/N 3EG-14613-00-00
bulletFelpro - P/N 23588
bulletAutoZone - P/N 85001

Color-Rite Color Codes - factory OEM paint colors from Color-Rite.com.  Note: Candy Red on Standard Raider and Raider S requires Base and Top coats.  Tommy Blue and Raven require Top coat only.

Factory Color

Code

 Paint Name Notes Color-Rite Top Color-Rite Base
0918 Deep Red Metallic K Standard & S models 5253 1253
0549 Purplish Blue Met. 7 S model 5640  
0903 Black Metallic X Standard model 5245  
0582 Matte Black Metallic #2 Frame Color - all models 5988-1  
0895 Silver #8 S Wheel 5265  
0033 Yamaha Black Standard Wheel 5135  

 
    Crossed Coil Wires

There have been several reports, through our forum as well as others, that some Raiders were delivered with crossed coil wires, primarily on the right side of the bike.  Located on the Raider behind the false air-cleaner covers on both sides of the engine, the coils generate the voltage that fires the spark plugs, of which there are 2 for each cylinder.  While long term or permanent engine damage is not likely with the coil wires crossed, one of the two plugs would not fire at the correct time, possibly leading to rough idling and decreased engine performance, particularly noticeable at lower engine speeds.  If you notice any engine performance issues that cannot be otherwise explained, it's easy to check out if this condition exists, and is worth a look.  IMPORTANT - remember that ignition coils generate potentially dangerous levels of voltage.  If you are not familiar with their operation, get the assistance of a qualified technician, or even better, take your bike to your dealer and have them repair the situation under warrantee.  If you find this condition exists on your bike, notify your dealer so that they can report the problem to Yamaha.

With the right-side coil cover removed (2 Allen screws), observe the two coils on the right side of the motor.

CORRECT - The coil on the left generates voltage for the rear cylinder (#1), and is fed with an Orange wire.  The coil on the right is for the front cylinder (#2) and is connected to a Green/Red wire.  Note the white ring labeled "2" around the front coil wire.

Photo courtesy of forum member Coyote

 

 

 

 

WRONG - Note how the Green/Red wire labeled "2" is connected to the left-hand coil for cylinder #1.

Photo courtesy of forum member Raider113

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
   

Removal of Tank Stickers/Decals

OK, I'm putting this is the maintenance section 'cause I wasn't quite sure where else to put it, plus we can chalk it up to an appearance issue.  The Raider is a custom inspired motorcycle, the appearance and style of which Star clearly put a lot of thought into.  After all that work, they still had to apply those warning stickers on the tank that tell us to wear our helmets and goggles and put in premium fuel (good advice, all of it - but we already knew this).  These decals are a jagged scar on the face of a supermodel.  Your dealer is not allowed to remove them, but that doesn't mean you can't.  After consulting the forum and doing a little searching, the general consensus is a hair dryer, WD-40 and a little patience will do the trick.

From Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine, this article sums it up perfectly, and provides some photos as well.

 
    Engine Clean-up

This modification comes courtesy of Forum Member Sleepercell (aka Ryan from Idaho), and shows how to remove the side covers from the Raider Engine, following installation of a Patrick Racing Big Air Kit, completely showing-off the entire left and right side of the motor.  Complete instructions and photos here.

 
    Cobra Swept, Fi2000R and High-Flow K&N Filter Install

This 3-part How-to is brought to us by Ninja-Matic (Jack from Mokena, IL).  His extremely well-photographed and written presentation shows us how to install a set of Cobra Swept Slashdown pipes and Cobra Fi2000R Fuel Controller, as well as modification of the stock airbox and installation of a high-flow K&N Panel Filter #YA-1906.  Instructions and photos here.

 
    Stage 1 Rear Fender Clean-Up

We designed this simple modification for those Raider owners who wanted to free up the view of the rear tire by getting rid of some of the extra plastic on the fender, while keeping an illuminated license plate on the back of the bike, and retaining the stock turn signals.

 
   

Performance Edge Integrated Tail Light and Side Mount License Plate

In our Stage 2 Rear Fender Clean-up, we completely remove the stock license plate bracket and turn signals, and install a Performance Edge Integrated Tail Light and Side Mount License Plate.  The turn signals are completely integrated into the tail light assembly.  Also posted on the Our Bike page, complete details can be found here.
    Blacking Out the Upper Belt Guard

If you aren't happy with the plain metal upper belt guard, aren't interested in adding more chrome to your Raider (especially you Raven owners out there), and don't have access to a powder coater, it's a real simple proposition to paint it to match the swingarm and engine cases - first suggested in our forums by BusaJack (John from Cheyenne, WY).

After removing the guard from the bike (two Allen screws), we primed it with one coat of Rust-oleum metal primer, followed by four coats of Rust-oleum Textured Flat Black spray paint.

While certainly not as durable as powder-coating, multiple coats of the paint followed by adequate drying time (48 hours) will lead to a decent finish that's very easy to patch up if necessary.
    Exhaust Installation - Helpful Hints

These tips come to us courtesy of forum member Geezy, who shared his experiences after installing the Cobra Dragsters in his Raider.  While his post referred to the Dragsters specifically, his advice can be applied to the installation of most aftermarket systems:

bulletWhen doing most motor work, I would highly suggest disconnecting the battery.  Since I was doing exhaust didn't think it would be an issue, unless you ground out the O2 as you disconnect it and blow a fuse like I did.  Disconnecting the battery will avoid this.
bulletDrop or remove right side driver foot peg for additional clearance when removing the pipe.
bulletRemove the cover by passenger foot peg as not to scratch it - one bolt, very easy.
bulletThe O2 sensor wire is long enough you just need to reroute it for the shortest distance possible and yes, it's very tight on the wire when connecting.
bulletThe cables (from the EXUP valve - ed.) they want you to remove from the pipes will be coming off and will not be used again.
bulletMake sure to reconnect all electrical fittings (only 2 under seat) - they only mention the O2 sensor wire in the instructions.
bulletYou might want to lay some adhesive tape on the frame and near chrome parts close to pipe as not to scratch anything.
bulletTwo days later, I noticed my brake light was not coming on - actually, the light was staying on.  When you lower or drop the right-side foot peg, watch the wire to the brake sensor.  If it hangs like I let mine, it bends the light aluminum bracket.  No damage, just had to bend it back a little to give the spring the correct distance needed to let the switch go back in.
    Kent's Raider Mods

Raider owner Kent (AKA "oops" on our Forum) is one of those bike enthusiasts who likes to explore the limits of "do-it-yourself" motorcycle modification.  Not one to hand the wrench off to someone else, he's designed and fabricated a SuperTrapp-based 2-into-1 exhaust system, front and rear fenders and other performance- and appearance-enhancing changes to his Raider.  Kent set up a website to document and share his progress here.